Cruising The Canals of Europe

Sail The Canals of Europe 

European Waterway's elegant barges, and the independently owned Nooit Volmaakt, sail through the authentic villages of Europe.

 

 

BARBARA RAMSAY ORR

Published Saturday, Feb. 25, 2012 06:00AM EST
Last updated Thursday, Sep. 06, 2012 11:48AM EDT
I spent the night in a room that was once full of sugar beets.
Drifting in through the small open window above my bed is the sound of ducks circling in search of breakfast. Soon, little white furry legs will scuttle past the window – Teddy, the barge dog, out for his constitutional – and the smell of fresh coffee will seep under the door from the galley. I know I can scramble up on deck with my camera and notebook, take some shots and a quick sketch of the mist on the river before the sun burns it off, but the bed is warm, and we were up late last night, lingering over a bottle of premier cu wine from nearby Chablis, lovely stinky local cheese and old stories from school days.
This is morning on the Nooit Volmaakt, a restored Dutch barge that once transported sugar beets along the waterways and is now owned by two Canadians from Victoria, Mary Koyl and Marc Pakenham, and their dog, Teddy. Over our first bottle of wine, we discovered that the skipper, my husband and I were undergrads at the same university at the same time long ago.
Together, we drifted along the canals and rivers southwest of Paris.
Touring on a barge is one of the most personal and intimate ways to explore Europe. The Nooit Voolmakt is only one of many barges that offer trips through the less populous areas of England, France, Germany, Italy and other countries. The small size allows passengers to indulge in their own personal interests while sailing through historic routes that are still navigable – canals that once served as the superhighways for commerce, opening trade routes that would become the foundation on which the Industrial Revolution would be built. Those canals and waterways still wind past villages, under stone bridges and straight through the bucolic farmlands of old Europe.

Barge cruises allow guests time to do what they love best. I am a food writer and an amateur artist, so the twin pleasures of time spent on deck with a mug of hot tea, continually replenished by Mary, and daily visits to markets, food shops and fine restaurants, were perfect for me.
In Moret, we moored just below the town bridge that French impressionist painter Alfred Sisley painted in the early 1890s, little changed today. I walked and cycled where Sisley and his friends did, ogled his house and sat in the main square in front of a pretty storefront that was signed, “Les Amis D'Alfred Sisley.” Perhaps he had no friends left as no one was ever there to open the shop. But no matter. This town, this itinerary, was ideally matched to my interests.
Other barge itineraries can inspire the photographer, the cyclist, the wine lover or the historian. Antiquarians can troll through a vide-grenier, French for empty attic, the Gallic version of a garage sale.
For the travelling gardener, this spring is perfect for a barge trip: to witness one of the more spectacular floral displays in the world. Holland will explode with tulips, hyacinths, irises, scillas, crocuses, muscari – it is visual fireworks that everyone must see at least once in a lifetime, and one of the best seats for this show is on a barge. The canals snake through fields that in spring are striated with bands of vivid colour created by thousands and thousands of flowers. The expanses of intense colour, in fields that unfold like well designed quilts, is a wonder unlike any other.
Many of the barge cruises include bike tours, as the terrain is flat and the scenery compact. If you bike along the paths through fields of flowers, expect to be ambushed by the perfumes of narcissus or hyacinth.
Some of the tulip barge tours stop at Aalsmeer for the flower auction and almost all of them, in April and May, include a visit to the Keukenhof, Holland's famous spring gardens in the town of Lisse, the centre of Holland's bollenstreek (bulb district). In this 32-hectare garden, bulb growers display their best and newest along pathways lined with acres of manicured gardens. There are more than seven million tulip bulbs planted here each year and the growers strive to outdo each other in the originality and impact of their displays. Blue muscari spill like rivers, daffodils grow in geometric designs, blue and white flowers mimic Delft pottery. I spent a happy afternoon drawing the antique tulips in one small historic garden, bulbs whose history stretched back to the early 1500s and whose story is the precursor to Europe's bourse (stock exchange) and North America's stock market.

 
While the Netherlands in spring is always a pleasure, last year was special: Floriade was on. It's the world's largest international floral show and gardening exposition, held once every 10 years. It's the Olympic Games of flowers for gardeners around the world and runs from April to October.
Ten years ago, I wandered Floriade for a whole day and didn't see it all. From landscaped display gardens to flower features to environmental innovations, there was something to beguile or inspire every few steps. You can even buy the latest hybrid bulbs for your garden. (I bought an amaryllis bulb the size of a large grapefruit, which produced eye-popping blooms that summer.)
For this sixth Floriade, held in Venlo, near the Belgian border, several barge cruisesscheduled shore excursions. Sure, visitors could do independent trips from several centres in Europe, but one of the best ways, leisurely and easily, is as a day trip from your barge. (Maybe you should be planning for your tulip barge trip in 2022!)

For, instead of design details, the emphasis on a barge cruise is on the quality of the experiences, the interaction between guests and crew, and the food, which is often larded with local specialties. It is, essentially, a slow meander down a lovely waterway with many seductive reasons to stop along the way.

There are still mornings when I wake up and imagine I can hear Teddy and the ducks. I can almost see the reflections in the water, and I wonder where Mary is with my tea.

IF YOU GO
Dutch flower cruises
European Waterways runs barge tours in several countries. Spring flower tours in Holland aboard the 12-passenger Panache, above, will include trips to Floriade. Prices start at $4,690 a person and include all meals, wines, excursions and local transfers. 877-879-8808; gobarging.com
The Barge Company runs the Magna Carta, an eight-passenger barge that cruises the Thames, including Hampton Court and stops at the Chelsea Flower Show. From $3,000 a person for six nights. www.bargecompany.com
River cruise lines such as Avalon Waterways, Azamara Cruises, Scenic Tours and Uniworld Boutique River Cruises have added excursions to Floriade.
Bike and Barge
Bike & Barge Holland offers 13-night cruises with bike excursions, including tours to Keukenhof Garden and the tulip fields, for $3,195. bikebarge.com
Van Gogh tours include six days of barging and cycling from Amsterdam to Bruges, Belgium, from $1,14. vangoghtours.com

Tulip time
Timing is everything if you want to see the tulips at their best. A late winter or early spring can shift the blooming time. The most dependable time to see the flower display in full flush is mid to late April.
This year, with a late and cool spring, tulips are delayed and will probably last until mid May. Head to the Keukenhof Gardens from March 22 to May 20 for a concentrated floral hit. keukenhof.nl

For more information, visit Holland.com.

Special to The Globe and Mail

Iconic Dining - Twenty Places to Dine Before You Diet - Part One

TOURING THE WORLD, ONE MEAL AT A TIME.



A list of the twenty of the most interesting places in the world to dine, chosen not so much because of the haute cuisine as for the adventure and mystique that is part of the dining experience - food as a total body encounter that raises the whole concept of appetite to a different level.

Got a great place where you have dined memorably? Let me know and I'll add it to the list. Have you dined in any of these iconic rooms? What was your experience? Tell me about it.
Here's the first five,, all examples of dining with the ghosts of history, great views of the world, intriguing architecture - a back story for every menu. Bon Appetit!

1. British Virgin Islands - an intimate picnic/barbecue on a secluded beach in Virgin Gorda, with chilled champagne and caviar - part of the dining experience when you cruise on the SeaDream.

2. Tromso, Norway - At the Peppermolle,( Storgata 54) (That's The Peppermill in Norwegian) in Tromso, you can dine with the memory of Arctic explorer Roald Amundsen, who had his last meal in this pretty restaurant. The Amundsen Room is decorated with photographs of the famous Polar explorers, many of whom used Tromso as their base, and the food is genuinely authentic Norwegian cuisine - smoked salmon tartar, grilled caribou, fillet of monkfish. If you dine in the summer, you can take a walk after dinner in the long daylight, enjoy a chilled beer on a patio, or savour the views of Bergenfjord and the northern lights.



3. Amsterdam, Netherlands - How fitting that, in this country devoted to growing flowers and all sorts of green things, one of the best dining experiences is in a converted greenhouse.



One of the best, and a totally appropriate choice for a Dutch meal, is Restaurant De Kas, www.restaurantdekas.nl situated in a gorgeously restored greenhouse designed by architect Piet Boon, and dedicated to serving the freshest food, much of which is grown in the greenhouse itself or on its farm property outside the city. Dining there for lunch is a light-filled experience, but in the evening, with candles and subdued lighting, it’s romantic and cozy.



The food is excellent. They serve a fixed price five course meal consisting of a collection of starters, main course, a cheese course and dessert. There were fresh oysters with foamed oyster liquor, grilled polenta with scepes, spinach and hazelnuts, and a tartar of ‘skrie’, Norwegian and Dutch baby shrimp, paired with a champagne aperitif just for starters.




4. Wadi Rum, Jordan - dine in a bedouin tent on middle eastern specialties, like couscous, tabbouli, vegetarian shami (sauteed patties of chickpea and green vegetable served with sweet-and-sour pomegranate sauce and crushed walnuts), and lamb Koubideh (skewered lamb kebobs with grilled tomatoes) Sit on thick carpets, and lean back on a fat pillow. Afterwards, enjoy a few inhalations from an aromatic houkah.



5. Sydney, Australia - It's always an experience to dine in an architecturally special place - Guillame's in the Sydney Opera House serves Mod-Oz food with wonderful views of the opera goers and the Sydney Bridge.



To work up an appetite, you can do the famous Sydney Bridge Climb before dining.


So there it is, part one of a four part series documenting the most interesting places to dine in the world. Have you experienced any of these?
Log in soon for Part 2.