Wednesday, November 19, 2014

The Hague: The Widow of Indonesia

The Dutch Royal City

 The Hague is often called The Widow of Indonesia as many of the 
plantation owners and employees of the Dutch East India Company 
came from here and returned to here.  The exotic flavours they brought back 
show up in almost evey corner of this elegant Dutch city.

Morning sun streams in through large windows, bouncing off white linen and silver, and making the red velvet chairs glow. In one corner, men in conservative business suits and crisp white shirts sit drinking their morning coffee and consulting their iPhones. 
It’s eight am on Monday morning in the Hotel des Indes, the favoured headquarters for lawyers, politicians and diplomats who conduct business in The Hague.  And since this is the Royal City, home of the World Court and the Dutch parliament, there is much serious business to be done.
There’s a problem, though.
Step outside the revolving brass doors of Hotel des Indes, and you face the seductive charms of the Lange Voorhout.  A corridor of green linden trees, a famous bi-weekly outdoor antique market, little secret gardens, and casual sidewalk cafes make thinking about business difficult.
Welcome to the vibrant dichotomy that is The Hague, a city that has been labelled the greenest city in Northern Europe as well as the world centre for peace and justice.   Its decisions affect the whole world, and its Indonesian rijstaffel is world famous.
Somehow these competing elements manage to strike a balance – the serious business of world issues and governance finds a comfortable fit with the not so serious business of enjoying the simpler pleasures of life – dining, shopping, lounging in the sun and people watching, in this, one of the world’s most cosmopolitan cities.

First you have the unexpected juxtaposition of buildings in the old city.  The elegant town houses and embassies that line the Lange Voorhout as it parades up to the 13th century Binnenhof, the buildings that house the Dutch parliament, could be illustrations in a textbook of classical architecture. 
But raise your eyes above the Binnenhof and you’ll see the modern skyline, where tall skyscrapers are multiplying.  It doesn’t feel like a disconnect, however.  There are traditional canal house design elements suggested in several shapes.  In typical Dutch fashion, the locals have given each building a nickname – the pristine white city hall designed by Richard Meier is called “The Candy Box”, the green domed one is labelled “The Citron Press” and  Michael Graves’ Castalia, the new Ministry of Health building, is deemed “The Tits of Den Haag”  because of its two distinctive pointed towers.
But there are more layers to the architectural landscape of the city. The Hague is the Art Nouveau capital of the Netherlands. Remember to look up often as you walk through the streets of Den Haag to see the architectural details that have been preserved above shops and cafes.

Walk away from the Binnenhof and find the Denneweg, then turn right along Jagerstraat and left onto Smidwater.  Here you’ll find #26, a faithful example of Art Nouveau architecture that is privately owned and in the process of being restored to its former glory.  The mail slot is a very cool stylized cat.
In contrast, just across the canal is #16 Nieuwe Uitleg, where the exotic dancer and suspected spy Mata Hari lived.
The Bijenkorf Department Store in the Grote Markt area is a fine example of The Amsterdam School of architecture. 
Radiating out from this sedate city heart are streets that bend and twist, opening onto ‘pleins’, or squares, offering seductive shopping and cafes that lure you to linger for a coffee and a stroopwaffel, the thin waffle cookie with a thick syrup in the middle that the Dutch make so well.  
The shopping is good. Along Hoogestraat you’ll find Ogen, Eduard Pelger, Dunklemens (famous for its croquettes), all up market Dutch shops.  If remarkable undergarments interest you, be sure to visit Marlies Dekkers’ shop on the Denneweg to pick up a unique and provocative ‘little nothing’. Amble by the interesting shops in the grand glass roofed Passage, or swan around in the cafes and sops in the new Haagshe Bluf (The Hague Boast!).
The Nooreinde is acknowledged to be the most fashionable shopping street. The Maison de Bonneterie is an upscale department store that is frequented by Queen Beatrix.  Pauw, Purdey and Hoogeweegen Rouwers are rumoured to be favourite shops of the young Dutch royals.  Gallery Arte Fortunata features artist Bas Meeuws whose photographs of floral still life, epoxy-sealed on metal, are an homage to the golden age masterpieces of Bosschart and  van Aelst.
And further along, on the Paleis promenade, cheek by jowl with the shops and galleries, is the Paleis Noordeinde, Queen Beatrix’s working palace.  It is not open to the public, but you can walk through the restful palace gardens on the opposite side. 
Farther out from the centre in the well treed neighbourhoods that are home to many ambassadors, there’s the imposing bulk of the Peace Palace, home of the International Court of Justice.

If it wasn’t already difficult to concentrate on work in this lively metropolis, there is the added allure of the beach. A fifteen minute tram ride brings you to a whole new face of The Hague.  The beach culture at Scheveningen lures city dwellers out to swim in the North Sea, walk the miles of white beaches and gentle dunes or to lounge in the sun on plump sofas with a glass of cold beer in one of the many clubs along the boardwalk.  The candy-confection Kurhaus Hotel sits like a Victorian lady in the middle of the boardwalk busyness.  There are evening fireworks shows over the pier all summer.


Another compelling distraction is the museums of The Hague, the city’s real treasures.  The Mauritshaus, labelled the most beautiful museum in the world by the New York Times, is hands down my favourite museum.  The building has just re-opened after extensive renovations.  It is a small museum, but its collection, displayed in high ceilinged rooms painted in jewelbox colours, is spectacular. It contains some of the most famous works from the old Dutch Masters, including Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring and View of Delft, Rembrandt’s The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp  and Carel Fabritius’ Goldfinch

The Escher Museum, housed in a former palace on the Lange Voorhout, the Museum Het Paleis, displays the convoluted works of the famous Dutch Graphic artist.
The Gemeentemuseum (Municipal Museum) specializes in classical modern art, Van Gogh, Kandinsky, Monet, Sisley, Degas, Bacon and a large collection of Mondrians. The building was designed by Hendrik Berlage, a Dutch architect who pioneered modern archtiecure.
A visit to Panorama Mesdag, the oldest 19th-century panorama in the world that's still in its original site, is like a journey to the past.  It is a cylindrical painting from 1881, created by Hendrik Willem Mesdag of The Hague School.  It shows a vista of the sea and the dunes at Scheveningen.
These are all special museums, beguiling to any art lover, and they add a cultured edge to the city.
There’s plenty of inducements to linger over dinner. You can dine here very well.  The Hague is often called The Widow of Indonesia as many of the plantation owners and employees of the Dutch East India Company came from here and returned to here.
Garoeda is one of many Indonesian restaurants specializing in the Rijstaffel, or Rice Table, a dizzying collection of dishes served on a bed of rice.
“The rijstaffel is more Dutch than Indonesian in style,” says my guide Remco. “We don’t like to waste anything, so the ladies who ran households on plantations wouldn’t throw out the leftovers.  Instead they had them served in a collection, with rice, at the end of the week.”  Now it’s a culinary tour de force of Indonesian specialties, but it was originally the result of Dutch parsimony. 
Reflecting the multicultural nature of its people, The Hague has many international restaurants.  Wox is a new Japanese fusion restaurant near the Hojviver, the pond that surrounds the parliament.  You can watch Dutch parliamentarians coming and going from its windows.
Saur is one of the best fish restaurants in the city, while Taste is a wine bar with an outdoor patio that looks out to the hojviver and the Mauritsthaus. T’Ogenblik is a sweet café that was recently voted the restaurant with the best service in the Netherlands.
Cafes like It’s Raining Fishes and Pulchri have hidden garden patios for a quiet meal and there are quaint prooflocals like Djuiden on …  to enjoy a chilled jenever, the Dutch style gin, at the end of an evening.
Be sure to stop at the Pizza Hut at the Noordeinde 140, not for the pizza but to look at the interior.  The building dates from 1707, and the ceiling decoration and fireplace are original. 
And when work get too oppressive, locals can slip away to sit in one of the 100 or so hidden hofjes, enclosed garden residences originally built as almshouses to house the elderly poor, but now lovely secluded garden apartments.
It may be difficult to stay focused on work in The Hague, but it is very easy to enjoy the pleasures of this worldly city. 

Getting There: Air Transat, Air Canada, fly regularly to Schiphol Airport.  Catch the train out of the airport and you will be in The Hague in about forty minutes.  There are frequent trains each hour.
Getting Around:  This is an easily walkable city but there is also a convenient network of trams that will take you all through the city and out to the Dunes.
Where to Stay
Hotel Des Indes
Lange Voorhout 54-56

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